Jérusalem, March 30 of 2018.
Jerusalem is a heterogeneous city of extremes and ethnicities, and its residential quarters reflect dichotomies you won’t find anywhere else in the world. The downtown pedestrian mall and the new light railway have introduced a European feel to what was once a "noisy old dowager" of a city, in the words of local laureate Yehuda Amichai. The dowager still inhabits the walled Old City; passing through its gates, you are transported back in time. Half the people are dressed in traditional garb that would be masquerade ball costumes anywhere else. Each quarter of the Old City – Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Armenian – has its own character.